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![]() ![]() Installing laminate flooring, Where to Start. When installing laminate flooring, knowing where the floor is going to end. Lets say your starting on one side of your living room and on the other side you have ceramic tile where your going to end your flooring. Your going to want the laminate flooring to be parallel with the ceramic tile, if the laminate runs off at an angle there it can look really bad. What I do is measure from the wall I'm starting from over to the ceramic tile, first at one end and then the other. If there is a big difference I adjust my laminate on the starting wall. To make it more parallel with the tile. When installing laminate flooring I have to decide where I want it to be parallel, the wall can be way off sometimes in relation to the ceramic tile. So if that wall is going to be mostly covered with furniture, you may have to let the laminate be unparalleled at the wall where it wouldn't be as noticeable, it would be more noticeable at the tile. You may ask why don't I just start at the tile instead? You could but it can be harder to keep your floor from shifting around. Starting on a wall allows you to use your spacers and this helps to keep the flooring from moving around as much. Installing Laminate Flooring in Hallways. Most often when installing laminate in hallways, I would say the preferred direction is to lay the laminate the length of the hallway rather than side to side. How to Cut Laminate Flooring. If you are doing a laminate flooring installation that only requires making straight cuts, you will need a circular saw. You might be. Laying it the length of the hallway tends to make the hallway look longer. On the other hand you may want the laminate to be installed the length of a long living room, but the hallway may connect to the side of the living room and this would mean the laminate in the hallway will end up going side to side. I have heard of some installers changing the direction of the hallway where it meets the living room but I don't like the way this looks. I have never done this. ![]() There is really no right or wrong direction to install the laminate. It is what you prefer. I have had clients that wanted the laminate to run side to side in their hallway. When you install the laminate lengthwise down the hallway, you want to look down the hallway and see the laminate run straight down the hall rather then angle off to one side or the other. I love to hear old-timers tell stories. At a JLC Live stair building seminar taught by Jed Dixon, I talked with Jed and Don Jackson (editor of JLC) about installing. How to Install Marble Floor Tile. Installing marble flooring can add beauty and elegance to a bathroom or foyer. With a variety of options in coloring and finish. Buy and Sell Exchanges Job Opportunities and Services Exchange Employment opportunities and services within the woodworking industry Lumber Exchange. Lighting. There is a lot of talk about the way the light shining in from a window or sliding glass doors looks on laminate flooring. I see where people say that the light should shine down the length of the laminate rather than across the joints. Again I don't think there is a wrong or right way concerning this. It is a matter of your own preference. Scribing the first row. Before starting, one of the first things you need to know when installing laminate flooring is the width of the base board or 1/4 round your going to install to cover the expansion gap. Base board and 1/4 round come in various thicknesses. I will always cut a small sample to use as I'm laying the floor to make sure I don't leave too big of a gap. More often then not the wall where your starting on is not always perfectly straight. When homes are built making a straight wall isn't a high priority. The walls tend to curve in or out. Scribing is the process of making your first row of flooring to follow the contour of the wall. Say the first row you lay is where you want it at both ends but the wall bows in 3/4 of an inch in the center. This 3/4 inch gap is too big to cover with the base board, so the gap needs to be smaller. This is where you need to scribe to know how much should be cut off. The easiest way to scribe is to use a compass. Set the compass at the width of the 3/4 inch space and follow the wall from one end to the other marking the laminate. Make sure the laminate is the right distance from the wall at either end. Another simple way to scribe is to use a small piece of wood to use as a guide for a pencil. Just slide the small piece of wood along the wall with a pencil as in this photo. This will transfer the shape of the wall to the laminate flooring. Now you cut along this line so it will follow the contour of the wall. I like to use a jig saw to do this. A table saw tends to bind up if there is too much of a curve. Return to DIY Installation Page From Installing Laminate Flooring Return to Home Page. How To Build A Fireplace Mantel This classic mantel features an arched frieze and can be built using basic carpentry skills. You have many options when it comes to fireplace design, like fuel types, locations, firebox liners, ventilation systems and masonry treatments. Mantels alone include a whole array of choices. A fireplace mantel can be natural wood or painted. It can include legs (pilasters) or may even incorporate a bookcase or other storage on each side. Some mantels extend all the way to the ceiling and include alcoves for displaying art or housing video screens. Surface design options include appliqués, fluting or surface designs. Raised or recessed panels can also be incorporated into the design. Mantels can be as rustic as a log set in river rock or as refined as the most elegant piece of furniture. First sketch your design on paper. Plan the Design. Mantels are either built in place or built as a unit (on or off site) and installed. How you attack your mantel job depends on your starting point. If you are building a mantel on a new fireplace install, check with any other trades for the order in which to do the job. Some stone masons prefer to have the mantel in place before setting any surround materials while others would like to set the masonry first and then have the mantel built around it or installed over it. This doesn’t mean that the mason or stone setter should call the shots, but if they have a preference you might as well ask them before ignoring them. Starting with the firebox, measure and mark the width of the masonry surround, plus (3/4″). Measure from both sides of the firebox as well as above the firebox. No matter the design or sequence of the mantel install, it must be built and installed with strength in mind. While mantels are decorative in themselves, they also function as a display shelf for the most precious of family heirlooms, so we have to make sure they are sturdy and well anchored to the house. If there is no wallboard up, you have an opportunity to add some framing to help anchor the mantel. Do so as long as it doesn’t violate the required clearances for combustible materials. Besides being sturdy, the mantel shelf itself must be deep enough to accommodate the items you wish to display there. Also, determining the mantel size is the size of the room. If the room is large and has high ceilings, you can and should build a larger mantel. Intimate spaces, on the other hand, should not be overpowered by a bulky mantel. As the mantel shelf extends beyond the face of the legs, the wider it will be. This is because the corbels and crown moldings, which support the mantel shelf, extend to the sides proportionally to the depth. The mantel design for this particular project is built around a zero- clearance firebox with a stone surround, but it will work as well with any number of surround treatments like brick or tile. The homeowner wanted a substantial sized crown molding, so we got the look by building up (or layering) two different moldings. After measuring and marking your layout lines, cut and install the backing for the legs. The legs should extend from the bottom of the floor to the bottom of the mantel shelf. Horizontal blocks can serve as backing for the legs, depending on framing location. Rip the side walls of the mantel legs to width. Fasten the legs’ sides and faces with glue and nails. Mantel with both legs in place. Step- by- Step Construction. It’s a good idea to start your project with a rough sketch, which is more or less to scale so you can get an idea of the proportions you think would look best. If you plan to use tile around the firebox, you can space the legs away from the firebox according to the tile width you want to use. Keep in mind that tile can be cut to width. If you are using stone it can be cut as well. Do a little research to confirm that the masonry you wish to use will work in the proportions you have planned. Beginning at the firebox, measure and mark the width of the desired surround, plus 3/4 inch. The extra 3/4 inch allows for the thickness of the boards, which will make up the sides of the mantel legs. Measure from both sides of the firebox out, as well as from the top of the firebox up. For this mantel you will need to allow about 2 inches for the high point of the arc, which is cut out of the frieze board. For example, if you want to use 1. To get the mark for the top of the mantel legs, you will need to add the height of all of the exposed components up to the bottom of the mantel shelf. At each step you will lose some elevation to the area that is overlapped. For example, our crown molding overlapped the bed molding, which overlapped the frieze board. Use a level to mark both the vertical lines and horizontal lines. Measure and cut backing cleats for the legs. Depending on the location of the framing, the cleats for the legs can be vertical or horizontal. On our fireplace we used both techniques. Rip the side wall pieces for the mantel legs. Cut the leg face pieces to length and rip them to width. Sand the saw marks off of the edges of the leg face pieces. Use a router to ease the edges. Nail the sides of the mantel legs to the backing. Apply carpenter’s glue to the edges of the leg side boards. Align the front faces on the mantel legs and nail them to the mantel leg sides. Next, locate and mark the framing above the horizontal layout lines. Measure, cut and install cleats along the horizontal lines. Measure, cut and install furring strips to bring the frieze board out to the desired thickness. Mark the framing above the horizontal layout lines. Then measure, cut and install cleats along the lines. Install furring stirps to bring the mantel face out to the desired thickness. After measuring and cutting the frieze board to length, find the center and clamp a triangle- shaped scrap of wood with one point at the center line and the high point of the desired arc. Bend a thin strip of wood over the triangle point and to the corners of the frieze board and trace along the edge. Cut out the arc with a jig saw. Sand off the teeth marks left by the jig saw. Use a section of the scrap cut off from the arc as a sanding block to match the curve of the arc. Do not ease or round over the edges of the arc. After cutting the faceboard to length, find its center and clamp a triangle- shaped scrap of wood (with one point at the intersection of the center line and the high point of the desired arc). Bend a thin strip of wood over the triangle and to the corners of the face board. Trace along the edge. Cut out the arc with a jigsaw. Use a section of the cut- out scrap as a sanding block to match the curve of the arc. Install the frieze board over the furring strips at the desired elevation. Check the frieze board for level and nail it into the furring strips. Lay out the bottom edge of the crown molding on the frieze board. Transfer these layout marks from the frieze board to the front of the mantel legs. Mark the bottom edge of the crown or bed molding all the way around the mantel legs. Nail the frieze board into the furring strips. Lay out the bottom edge of the crown molding on the frieze board. Transfer the layout marks from the face to the front of the mantel legs. Mark the bottom edge of the crown molding all the way around the mantel legs. Begin the crown molding build- up with a piece of bed mold or brick mold cut at inside miters to the length of the frieze board. Follow the mantel legs with the first layer of molding all the way around the mantel legs. Measure the pieces at the point where they touch the mantel surfaces. Mark the overlap for the next level of crown molding. Install the second level of crown in the same order as the first, beginning with the center piece and working out to the edges. Apply carpenter’s glue at all miter joints. A good technique at this stage is to cut a piece of crown just a little over size. After testing one miter for fit, hold the piece in place and mark the short point to indicate the precise location of the second cut. A small overlap requires precise nailing. You may want to add a strip of wood to the top of the first layer of molding so you have more wood in which to nail. Measure the first round of moldings at the points where the crown will overlap. Begin the crown molding buildup. Work upward, adding profiles. Close- up of crown molding construction. A small overlap requires precise nailing. Add a strip of wood to the top of the first layer of molding so you have more wood in which to nail. Measure and cut the mantel shelf. How to Install a Standing Seam Metal Roof - DIY Guide - Metal. Roofing. Systems This instructional guide is based on Fabral’s nailing- strip standing seam system, with 1″ ribs. Before you actually go ahead and order any panels for the job, we recommend that you thoroughly read this guide, and watch the video below to get a better idea of just how involved this can be. Need a Roofer? Get 4 Free Quotes From Local Pros: Start Here. Enter Your Zip Code: Installation Video: Before you take on the installation, be sure to watch the video above a few times so that you have a very clear picture of what is involved in the installation process, and see whether you really want to tackle such a big project on your own. General considerations: When installing a standing seam, it is strongly recommended that all asphalt shingles are removed before the installation in order to prevent / avoid the “telegraphing effect” where horizontally installed shingles punch through the vertical sheet metal roofing panels, causing unsightly dents that cannot be fixed / removed. Also, since most standing seam roofs installed are made out of steel, the granular surface of asphalt shingles will rub against underside of metal roofing panels, and thus will likely scratch through the paint and galvanized layer, which will cause metal panels to rust from underneath. Measuring basics: When ordering materials, it is important to correctly measure the length of your panels, so that you don’t end up with panels that are too short and unusable. Measure the vertical run from the eave of the roof, all the way up to the ridge line, and order your panels at least 2 inches longer than the length of your gable / roof run. These two extra inches will be used to form a drip- edge hem. Note that a typical standing seam drip edge extends 1 inch beyond the eave, and that you will need to make a reverse hem in order to lock the panel into the eave starter. That’s where the two extra inches come into play. Steel or aluminum? In my opinion, aluminum is a much better choice of material compared to steel, when it comes to standing seam metal roofs. Aluminum will not rust, and is the safest option to install in coastal areas. While most architectural steel standing seam roofs are made with high quality galvanized metal (usually Galvalume or G- 9. While aluminum is more expensive than steel, I think the price difference is well worth it, especially if you happen to live near the coastline or marine environment. A note to Homeowners and First- time Installers: For do- it- yourself enthusiasts, for your first installation we recommend installing standing seam on a simple gable roof, with minimum roof penetrations. · · http:// Assembly of an Absolute Steel building is a simple process and we explain it clearly—every step in this video series. This is. Generally speaking, it’s much easier to install corrugated metal sheets than standing seam as there is no hemming involved. I agree with the author that it’s a. · · Go to http:// to watch the complete 14 video series on installing metal roofing. How to Install Metal Roofing. Metal roofing is becoming very popular because it adds durability, beauty, and helps reduce the energy costs of your home. This type of. If you have chimneys, skylights, dormers and/or valleys on your roof, we recommend you leave this task to a seasoned professional installer, because it’s really easy to make costly mistakes when installing metal flashing and other details. An improperly installed metal flashing could cause premature roof leaks and require expensive repairs down the road. Installation Process: Eave trim / starter strip installation: The very first flashing is the WEF- 1 eave trim that should installed prior to the roofing under limit. The WEF- 1 is intended to be used on roof pitches up to six twelve. For roof pitches greater than six twelve, a two piece eave trim of WEF- 2 and WEF- 3 can be used. Within this video the WEF- 1 will be used. Place the top of the WEF- 1 trim in line with the substrate and fasten to the decking eighteen inches on center with roofing nails. The eave trim will be fastened along the fascia with number fourteen screws spaced sixteen inches on center. The next segment will show how to flash two eave trims that meet at a valley and a hip. Note the use of graphite pencils on painted steel will corrode it over time. Cut the trim as shown or needed, and attach as described previously with appropriate roofing nails and screws. Take note of the angles cut to allow for the trims to overlap. Sealant should be used between any trims that overlap. Underlayment: Now that all the eave trim has been fasted, the underlayment can be attached. Cover the entire roof with thirty- pound felt paper or titanium underlayment. Ice and water shield should be used at all valleys, chimneys and skylights. In cold climates ice and water should to be used at the eaves and extend twenty four inches past the exterior walls. The installation of the underlayment is started at the eave & a gable end, and rolled out parallel to the eave line. Allow each consecutive course to overlap the previous by four to six inches. Overlap the end of minimum of six inches when starting a new roll of underlayment. Areas that have been torn or cut should be replaced or repaired prior to installation of the climate guard panel. At side wall and end wall conditions continue the underlayment a minimum of six inches up the wall and fasten. To prepare for installation of the first panel apply a bead of beetle sealant on the eave trim. Details on cutting and hemming a panel: Make a mark one inch from the end of the panel and cut along the base of each rib with snips. Use the bending tool to form a hem under the pan. Cut off the under lap rib completely. Remove leg and rib top from overlap rib with tin snips. Then tab around rib and cut flush. Place an alignment line along the gable end, one half inch from the edge and square with the eave line. ![]() This is where the first panel will be started. Set butyl sealant tape along the eave trim. Place the first panel with overlap leg along the alignment line. In cold weather, slide the panels tight again eave flashing, and in warm weather allow a gap for expansion. Fasten panel side with number ten pancake head screws and the top of the panel with three number fourteen mill points. The second panel is installed in the same fashion. Place sealant over underlap rib before sliding hem over the eave trim. Snap first two to three inches of panel together, and slide the panel tight against the eave trim, or with the gap depending on the temperature. Snap the panels together and fasten along the opposite side and top of the panel. The eave hem can be tightened by crimping with duck bill wise- grips or flanging tool after the installation is complete. Attaching gable trim over the panel: To finish off the end, cut along the bends and fold top plane down ninety degrees towards eave trim and cut other flaps flush. To view other options on finishing off the gable, review the clima- guard installation manual. Install a bead of sealant tape along rib a panel, lay gable trim in place. Fasten along fascia board every twenty- four inches on center with number ten wood fastener or number fourteen mill points screws. Ridge caps: The installation video above shows a vented ridge cap with RX1. Versavent material that is pre- attached before shipping. Place the ridge cap over the panel and fasten with number twelve stitch screws through each rib. Overlap the next ridge caps six inches with sealant between the laps. Optionally, you can install solid or vented Z- bar flashing between the ribs, and fasten them down with roofing screws. Use polyurethane sealant between the z- bar flashing and the metal roofing panel. Also, seal the opening between z- bar flashing and ribs, on each end of the z- bar. Apply sealant to the back side of the closure near the ribs and over the flanges to seal gaps. Valley flashing: Focusing on the valley area, the first step is to place ice and water shield center down the valley. ![]() Cut the valley flashing to the angle and length needed to secure over the ice and water shield. Apply roofing underlayment on top of the valley flashing. In the installation video you can see the next flashing to be installed, is the WVC- 1 valley cleat. You can optionally use a valley flashing with built- in reverse lock, which eliminate the need for valley cleat. First, apply a bead of beetle sealant tape to the bottom side of the valley cleat. Position the valley cleat six inches away from the center of the valley. Fasten with number ten pancake head screws at twelve inch spacing. Now that the valley cleat is installed we’re ready to start cutting and hemming panels for the valley. Before installing the panels place a bead of butyl sealant tape along the eave flashing and on top of the valley cleat as shown. 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Transformation is on every IT organization's to- do list, but effectively transforming IT means a major shift in technology as well as business models and culture. In this IT Trend Report, we examine some of the misconceptions of digital transformation and look at steps you can take to succeed technically and culturally.[Interop ITX 2. State Of Dev. Ops Report. The Dev. Ops movement brings application development and infrastructure operations together to increase efficiency and deploy applications more quickly. But embracing Dev. Ops means making significant cultural, organizational, and technological changes. This research report will examine how and why IT organizations are adopting Dev. Ops methodologies, the effects on their staff and processes, and the tools they are utilizing for the best results. Video. Sponsored Video. Slideshows. Twitter Feed. ![]()
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